Delhi · North India
Where the journey usually opens. A Chandni Chowk food walk, Karim's and Al Jawahar, and a haveli dinner in Old Delhi.
The lanes of Old Delhi on foot, then the same tables regulars have argued over for generations.
The India Journal
Four pages, before you decide
Turn the page through four real fofees circuits — Old Delhi, a Rajasthani home, Varanasi's ghats, and Kerala's backwaters. Every page links straight to the itinerary it's drawn from.
India
North India
Where the journey usually opens
Delhi
A Chandni Chowk food walk, Karim's and Al Jawahar, and a haveli dinner in Old Delhi.
The lanes of Old Delhi on foot, then the same tables regulars have argued over for generations.
See it in The Pan-India Grand TourWhat is in the journal
Rajasthan · North India
Forts, and a Rajput home's table. Amber Fort and the City Palace, and a dal-baati-churma meal in a real Rajput home rather than a restaurant recreation.
Marwari thalis and heritage haveli stays through the countryside — the Pushkar Camel Fair's tents sell out up to 12 months ahead.
Varanasi · North India
The ghats, at dusk and at dawn. Ganga aarti at dusk and a sunrise boat ride along the ghats — timed to Dev Deepawali's ghat illumination if your dates land in November.
One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, seen from the water, not just the bank.
Kerala · South India
Backwaters, and a 26-item feast. Sadhya banana leaf; Malabar parotta and biryani; a toddy shop with a vetted host; a backwaters kitchen.
Alleppey's backwaters by houseboat, then Munnar's tea estates for the send-off.